Clipless pedals are not the graduation ceremony they are sold as. They hold your foot in a fixed, repeatable position and stop it bouncing off over rough ground, which is a real advantage on long rides and fast ones. Flats let you put a foot down instantly, need no special shoes, and are the better tool for technical mountain biking, for beginners, and for anyone whose ride involves traffic lights. Pick by what your riding asks of you, not by what looks serious.

What clipping in actually buys

The genuine benefit is connection. Your foot lands in the same place every ride and stays there, so the position you set once is the one you keep. Nothing shifts under a hard effort, nothing skates off when you hit a cattle grid, and on rough ground you stop spending attention on where your feet are.

That consistency has knock-on effects. A repeatable foot position makes a bike fit meaningful, because there is little point setting saddle height by millimetres if your foot moves a centimetre each ride. Staying attached also matters in a sprint, or standing on a steep climb where a slipped pedal means a shin on the crank arm.

Shimano

Shimano SPD pedals

Budget

Double sided and adjustable, which is what makes learning survivable

Best for: The default first clipless pedal

Adjustable release tension is the feature that matters for a beginner: wind it right down, practise unclipping against a wall, and the learning curve mostly disappears.

Standard
Two-bolt SPD
Release tension
Adjustable
Sided
Double sided on most models
Float
Some

Strengths

  • Adjustable tension makes learning survivable
  • Double sided, so no hunting for the right face

Trade-offs

  • Small platform without a cage
  • Mud can pack the mechanism
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The pulling up myth

The classic sales pitch is that you can pull up on the backstroke and so produce more power. Be careful with this one. Riders can pull up when asked to, but doing it continuously is tiring and inefficient, and trained cyclists do not naturally ride that way. What good riders do is unweight the rising leg rather than lift it, and you can learn that on flats too.

So treat clipless as buying security and consistency, not free watts. If someone promises a percentage power gain from clipping in, that number is not coming from anywhere solid. Where it does help is indirect: you can put everything into the pedals out of the saddle without reserving attention for keeping your feet on them.

The learning curve, and the topple

Almost everyone falls over at least once, and it is nearly always the same fall: rolling to a stop, weight settling onto the foot still attached, and over you go at zero miles an hour. It hurts your dignity more than your body, and it usually happens in the first few rides.

The fix is release tension, which most pedals adjust with a small hex key. Wind it to the lowest setting when the pedals are new. It will feel like the pedal lets go too easily, which is the point while you are learning, and you can add tension later. Practise against a wall or on grass, clipping in and out until your ankle does it without consultation, then decide well before every junction which foot comes out and get it out early.

When flats are genuinely the better choice

Flats are not a stage to grow out of. Plenty of very good mountain bikers ride them by choice, because on technical ground getting a foot down instantly is worth more than a secure connection. If you are picking through rocks or riding at the edge of your ability, being able to abandon the bike without negotiating with it is a safety feature.

They also win on ordinary ground. Commuting means repeated stops and the occasional emergency dab, and short trips are quicker when any shoe works. New riders have enough to think about without an unclipping reflex, and a rider who feels nervous about being attached will ride less, which costs more than any efficiency.

Modern flats are also not the plastic pedals that came with the bike. A wide platform with replaceable pins, paired with a grippy flat-soled shoe, holds a foot far better than most people expect.

Various

Pinned flat pedals

Budget

A real choice for technical riding, not a compromise

Best for: Technical riding, beginners, commuting and anyone who wants to dab

A wide platform with replaceable pins and grippy shoes holds the foot better than most people expect. Not a compromise, a different and often better answer.

Platform
Wide
Pins
Replaceable
Bearings
Sealed on better models
Shoe
Needs a grippy flat sole

Strengths

  • Foot comes off instantly when you need it to
  • No special shoes, no cleats to wear out

Trade-offs

  • Pins will shred your shins
  • Less secure when pedalling through rough terrain
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Affiliate link. Specs come from manufacturer listings and were last checked on 2026-09-08. Confirm the current model and price on the product page before you buy.

Shoes are half of each decision

Neither system is shoes-optional. Clipless needs shoes with the matching bolt pattern in the sole, so pedal and shoe are chosen together, as covered in how to choose cycling shoes. Two-bolt SPD is the forgiving version: the cleat recesses into the tread, so you can walk normally.

Flats need a shoe too, just a cheaper one. The sole needs to be flat, stiff enough not to wrap around the pedal, and made of soft grippy rubber. Running shoes are the wrong answer: the curved, cushioned sole rolls off the platform and the soft midsole absorbs the pins instead of engaging them.

Shimano

Shimano SPD mountain shoes

Mid-range

If you do go clipless, start here rather than with road cleats

Best for: First clipless shoes, gravel, commuting and anything you walk in

Two-bolt SPD is the forgiving end of clipless: the cleat recesses into the sole so you can walk normally. This is the right first clipless shoe for almost everyone.

Cleat standard
Two-bolt SPD
Sole
Moderately stiff
Closure
Laces, velcro or dial by model
Walkable
Yes, recessed cleat

Strengths

  • Recessed cleat means you can walk in them
  • Easiest system to clip in and out of

Trade-offs

  • Less stiff than road-specific soles
  • Smaller cleat spreads load over less area
Check price on Amazon

Affiliate link. Specs come from manufacturer listings and were last checked on 2026-09-08. Confirm the current model and price on the product page before you buy.

Weighing the two

What mattersCliplessFlats
Foot security over rough groundExcellent, the foot cannot leaveGood with pins and the right shoe
Getting a foot down fastNeeds a deliberate twistInstant
Foot position consistencyFixed, and repeatable ride to rideYou reposition every time
Learning curveA few rides, plus one slow-speed fallNone
Shoe requirementCleat-compatible shoes onlyAny flat, grippy sole
Walking off the bikeFine on two-bolt, awkward on road cleatsNormal
Running costsCleats wear out and need replacingPins, occasionally
Cost to your shinsLowPinned pedals will shred them

That last row is not a joke. A pinned pedal is a rasp, and when a foot slips the pedal keeps turning into your shin. The wounds are shallow, slow to heal and memorable. Riders who use pinned flats off road often wear tall socks or shin protection for exactly this reason, so flats are not the risk-free option.

Common mistakes

Going straight to three-bolt road pedals because that is what racers use is the big one, since road cleats are the least forgiving system to learn on and the worst to walk in. Leaving release tension at the factory setting is next. After that: riding worn cleats, which release unpredictably in both directions; expecting flats to work with running shoes; and treating the switch as permanent, when plenty of riders keep clipless on the road bike and flats on the trail bike without any contradiction.

Questions people ask

Why are they called clipless when you clip in?

Because they replaced toe clips, the cages and straps that held your foot on a flat pedal. The new pedals had no clip, so they were clipless. The name has confused people ever since and is not going to change.

Will clipless pedals make me faster?

A little, on rough or fast riding, mostly because your feet stop moving and you stop thinking about them. Do not expect a step change in power. If you want a faster bike, position, fitness and tyres will all do more than pedals.

Can I use one of each?

Yes. Pedals with a clip mechanism on one face and a flat platform on the other exist, and they suit commuters who sometimes ride in normal shoes. The compromise is that neither side is as good as a dedicated pedal, and you spend a moment flipping to find the face you want.

What should I buy first if I am new?

Flats, a grippy pair of shoes, and gloves, the cheap protection you will be glad of the first time a foot slips, covered in cycling glasses and gloves. Ride a season, and if you find yourself wanting your feet held on rough ground, move to SPD. More across the cycling hub.